Tiny Wing Build

 

PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING YOUR WING CORES FROM THE SADDLES
PEEL THE FOAM BACK SLOWLY TO AVOID TEARING THE WINGS.

UHU Por is the recommended glue.

CG = approx 70mm from nose.

The “TINY WIENER” is an experimental sub micro flying wing with the option of adding FPV.

You can build your “WIENER” with a 1S or 2S battery.

1S Brushless Motor

For general indoor flying line of sight a 1S set up is our preferred option.
This is enough to power the model for 15+ minutes and keeps the weight of the model below 28-30 grams.
The wing will be very agile at this weight and is able to perform loops, rolls and fly inverted.

If you intend to fly outdoors or FPV we highly recommend a 2S set up.
All up weight will be around 40 grams if you use a 180mah 2S battery and a nano size FPV camera.
The AP03 4000kv motor is recommended with a 3020 prop
This motor is easy to attach as it has a built in mount.

AP03 4000KV Motor – Recommended for 2S

 

The model will be capable of 40-50mph using a 2S set up, but can be flown much slower due to the thrust generated by the larger prop.
A well balanced model will glide smoothly when you throttle off.
A 2S WIENER flown at speed can keep up with many other large electric wings and although it is affected by the wind it’s still a stable model in a breeze up to around 8-10mph without a gyro or flight controller.

 

The real beauty of a micro wing is the ability to fly in really small spaces like playing fields and car parks where larger models would not be allowed.

Go for those tiny gaps with confidence and you will have a blast flying this little beast.

We encorage experienced builders to try other motor, esc and prop combinations and to share your experiences in the TINY WING Facebook group.

 

FUSELAGE

 

Start by assembling the fuselage.
Once you have chosen your motor type you can glue the fuselage pieces together.

Do not glue along the sides of the thin floor of the fuselage as this will form the hatch to access the battery bay.

The balsa block can be used for the optional 1S motor.
A hole will need to be drilled to allow the spine to be seated in the block and the wires to enter the bay.
If you choose a 2S motor the ply motor mount can be glued to the back of the fuselage so the motor can be screwed in place later.

Cut Out Equipment Bay.
Optional Balsa Block For 1S motor with spine
Foam Block for optional ply motor mount
Ply Motor Mount for AP03 motor

 

WINGS

Once you have completed the fuselage you can begin to assemble the wings.
In the hardware pack you will find 2 strips of balsa.
Glue these to the leading edges of the wings and hold them in place with masking tape until the glue is dry.

At this point we recommend placing the wings back into there saddles to keep the wings straight while the glue dries.
Allow 20 minutes to cure fully before trimming away the excess.

Now you can apply glue to both wing roots and join the wings together.
Again we recommend putting the wings back in the saddles and add some weight the top to hold everything firmly in place while the glue dries.

 

Glue balsa strips to leading edges. The balsa will be sanded later to form a smooth rounded leading edge and also acts as a spar to stiffen the wing.

 

Tape balsa strips and place in lower wing saddle to keep it straight while the glue dries.
Trim the excess from the root and glue the 2 wing halves together. Keep the wings in the saddles to ensure they remain straight and level while they dry.

 

CONTROL SURFACES

 

Using the picture below as a guide mark out and cut the servo holes.
The servo travel should be 90 degrees to the trailing edge to allow free movement of the control linkages.
We have found using some masking tape and a pen to draw around the servo’s helps to get a nice tight fit.
Cut all the way through the wing and pop out the foam.
The servo’s can be glued in place using UHU Por and the servo leads can be sunk into the wings with a light scoring of the under side with a sharp scalpel.

The control horns need to be cut down to provide enough movement of the Elevons.
We suggest making and cutting them at a slight angle 6mm form the top of the horn.

Mark out your Elevons on the piece of 2mm Depron in the hardware pack and cut them to shape using a sharp scalpel or pair of scissors.

You will notice we have cut a bevel on the trailing edge of the wing and you will be able to create a glue hinge along the top edge of this bevel using UHU Por.
Use the glue very sparingly along the top edge and leave it a couple of minutes to dry before attaching the Elevons.
Once the glue is dry the Elevons should be able to move freely.

Once everything is dry you can cut a small slot in the Elevons and glue the control horns in place as close to the hinge as possible with the horn leaning towards the servo.

Now leave the glue to dry for at least 1 hour to make sure the control horn is firmly in place.

The control horns need to be cut down to provide enough throw.
Star represents the center of the servo. Red line = root joint.

 

 

Slice the foam to hide your servo wires. Glue the servo’s in place using UHU Por.

ELECTRONICS

We recommend mounting the ESC on the side of the fuselage and keeping your wire runs as short as possible to save weight.

The simplest set up is 1S as everything can be powered directly from your Receiver.
A 1S battery can be plugged directly in to the REC and power for the servo’s and ESC drawn from it.

1S 3amp ESC

If you are building a 2S WIENER you will need a voltage regulator to step down the voltage to below 4 volts or you will blow your servo’s.
We recommend the Turnigy 7amp sub micro ESC for a 2S set up, but please not this does not have a BEC and the voltage regulator will need to be soldered to the battery lead to power the receiver and servo’s at a safe voltage.

Step Down Voltage Regulator – 3.3V
Recomended ESC for 2S set up – Turnigy Multistar 7amp.

Optional hatch brace, stops the hatch falling open during flight.
Using a prop saver is highly recommended.